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Times 26973 - very comma very tasty

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Seems a bit of a foodie theme today, with one obscure word at 23a which did ring a faint bell once the wordplay suggested it. The top half went in smoothly but the lower was a little more intractable, although it's one of those puzzles you look at afterwards and wonder why it took so long. About half an hour in two tranches with an interruption.



Across
1Plates and saucers etc, still not drinking cups! (3,3)
TEA SET - My reading of this is TT = not drinking, with EASE = still inserted. At a stretch i think EASE could mean still as a verb. but perhaps there's a better idea.
5Anti-war protester curtailed agreement, one with weapon in hand? (8)
PACIFIST - PAC(T), I, FIST = weapon in hand.
9Serious about credit, it is ruined (8)
DECREPIT - DEEP = serious, aorund CR, then IT.
10Energy entering a crowd, a tiny shape-shifter (6)
AMOEBA - A, E inside MOB, A.
11Meat in fringes of fire, served lit (6)
FLAMBE - LAMB inside F(IR)E.
12Postprandial drink like coffee ultimately suits when knocked back (8)
DIGESTIF - DIG = like (1960s speak), E = end of coffee, FITS = suits, reversed.
14I'm going to eat starters of real authenticity: Indian spices for dip (12)
TARAMASALATA - TATA = I'm going, insert R A (starters of real authenticity) then MASALA being Indian spices. I think taramasalata is a bit more than a dip, the real 'cods roe salad', when you get it in Greece, but it's a bit more dippy in Tesco.
17Beating ancient Greek volleyball team, perhaps, close to defeat (3,2,3,4)
SIX OF THE BEST - Well, there must be 6 players in a volleyball team, because this is SIX OF THEBES for the Greeks followed by T the 'close' to defeaT.
20After better rock music for something spicy (8)
CAPSICUM - CAP = better, beat; (MUSIC)*. I thought capsicums were the large red and green peppers which aren't spicy, and I hate, not the little chillies that I love, but I see the species includes chillies as well.
22Grass-coated hide of elk smelt (6)
REEKED - E(L)K inside REED.
23Wind is returning, low and menacing at first (6)
SIMOOM - SI = is returned, MOO = low, M(enacing). A dusty desert wind; the word means 'poison wind' in Arabic apparently and can be spelt several ways in our alphabet. Poison wind in our house is usually blamed on the dog. I DNK it but plumped from the wordplay.
25Poorest off welcoming very brief stay (4-4)
STOP-OVER - Insert V (very) into (POOREST)*.
26Theatre boxes always the cheapest accommodation (8)
STEERAGE - Insert E'ER = always, into STAGE.
27Daughter and curious man avoiding gentle breeze (6)
DODDLE - I liked this one. D, ODD = curious, then remove the GENT from GENTLE to leave LE. A doddle, a breeze, a piece of cake.

Down
2Name coming up in Waugh, in impartial manner (6)
EVENLY - EVELYN Waugh has his N moved up in the word.
3Tasty struggle on the field — good to hold back in fact (11)
SCRUMPTIOUS - SCRUM is a rugby 'struggle on the field' (weren't England terrible against the intrepid Scots?). then insert T (back of FACT) into PIOUS = good. I thought the word might have interesting etymology, but it seems to be unknown.
4With sensitive information, European Community in bizarre protest (3-6)
TOP-SECRET - Insert EC into (PROTEST)*.
5After uprising, foolish to quit German city (7)
POTSDAM - All reversed; MAD, STOP = foolish, quit.
6Family planning in the end sound as a bell? (5)
CLANG - CLAN, G.
7Back hopper to lose tail (3)
FRO - FROG loses its G. FRO as in to and fro.
8Reshuffle by Tories: that’s a serious state (8)
SOBRIETY - (BY TORIES)*.
13Went back for a moment (5,6)
SPLIT SECOND - SPLIT = went, departed; SECOND = back, support.
15In slayer, assume a possible offender? (5,4)
SWEAR WORD - Insert WEAR = assume, into SWORD = slayer.
16Great author has little time for criminal (8)
BIGAMIST - BIG = great, AMIS (Kingsley or Martin, to taste) (EDIT as pointed ot below, Martin is still with us, so you have to take Kingsley), T(ime). for some reason I was misdirected to the wrong end for a definition and this was my LOI, although it could have been easy had I thought I was looking for a law-breaker.
18Arrangement of names, some without order, all together (2,5)
EN MASSE - (NAMES S E)* where S E is SOME without the order OM.
19Celebrate screening a show (6)
REVEAL - Insert A into REVEL = celebrate.
21Butterfly mark (5)
COMMA - Double definition. Polygonia c-album (comma) is a food generalist (polyphagous) butterfly species belonging to the family Nymphalidae. I used to see them in swarms on the Jurassic Coast as a boy, but I suspect they are less common nowadays.
24Lines often dedicated to defending harbours (3)
ODE - Hidden in T(O DE)FENDING.

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